Day 4: Up and Away

Well, I guess bravery and non-achy feet come with time. I am not going to be able to jump into new things right away, but for now I can at least make my attempts. What this means is that a solo traveler may have the advantage of only being responsible for themselves, but they are also responsible for their own entertainment and fun.

I have the advantage of going at my own pace, I see what I want to see and make my own plans and then change them at will. Like the other day: I crossed off Sainte Chappelle from the day’s itinerary at the last moment. Now if my traveling companion was set on seeing it then and there, I would have a problem. So that is the bonus, now for the bad side: going to cafés and bars is not easy. You always feel a bit awkward and assume people will notice you are on your own., yet you still want a taste of the atmosphere. I think it is a situation that gets better with time and practice, but for now the awkwardness still reins.

So on to my adventures….

The plan was to visit Montmartre and Sacre Coeur, with a free afternoon to be used for whims (How unlike me!). Since I really had no specific way I wanted to tackle Montmartre, I decided to copy the directions for a walk guided by the DK Eyewitness book for Paris. This seemed simple enough, although I knew my luck was running out and soon I would be losing the sense of direction I never had. Regardless, I am an adventurous soul in France, so upwards and onwards! Literally!

I made myself get up early in the morning to get my morning baguette. Unfortunately the bakery first recommended to me was closed, so I wandered a bit before finding a petit boulangerie and getting my baguette. At the apartment I had some coffee and strawberry preserves to complement my baguette and soon I was on my way. Of course my plan was written down in my notebook, and I knew where I was going….sorta.

Unfortunately my confidence on the Metro got the better of me, and my favorite metro station turned into a maze when I tried to transfer trains at Concord. I missed the sign that told me to turn, which led me down the wrong hall to the wrong train line. Of course a lot of the signs face only one direction so walking back, I didn’t see the sign again! Finally I did figure it out, and found the train to Pigalle. This is where things got complex. My lovely DK book turned out to be no help when navigating the streets when exiting the Metro. I started walking in own direction till I finally got a semblance of my bearings. Once on the DK path I started worrying that I had found myself in the heart of the Red Light district. The first street was lined peep shows and some crazy stores, and to me it was a bit shocking. As someone I know would say, my bubble shrunk and quite unnecessarily! Fortunately for my bubble, the was the only such street on the walk. As I turned the corner I was in what I dubbed Guitar Lane. The little street was lined with stores selling guitars and musical gizmos and gadgets. The path led me by a little florist shops and then through a bit of residential area.

Now this is where things got sticky. The DK directions didn’t provide street names at times and so I had consulted another map to get them. Unfortunately the part of the map I needed was where it folded over, leaving me to puzzle it out. I had thought I did ok…

But following the revised directions, I found myself going down the wrong street ad the wrong way (Let’s just say I temporarily forgot to check which hand I write with to verify directions). After a bit of stumbling about, I found a street on the original set of directions and was back on the path. I was surrounded by little shop with fabrics of all types and colors, and I began to wish that I had a project lined up that required me to sew let alone I began to wish that I knew how to sew! I had some fun ducking into these stores anyway, taking a peak at all the wares. Further down the street, I was surrounded by fabrics of a different type, those of the scarves for sale at cheap souvenir shops. I admit they are quite pretty, but they become repetitive in the end. I walked along the street hoping to find something for the little ones back home but nothing really caught my eye. I walked on and soon saw Sacre Coeur towering above me on its pedestal like hill. Immediately the bracelet sellers swarmed around me like flies to fresh fruit. They were awfully insistent despite my firm “Non, Merci”. I think at one point a spurned vendor began a tirade with a fair amount of swearing in English and French! I take it that it wasn’t a good day for him, too many tourists having done their research. Unfortunately just as many hadn’t and I just wanted to shout out for them to avoid them at all costs.

At that point, I stepped off the DK path and decided to visit Sacre Coeur. As I started my climb, I remembered the scene from Amelie where she had her poor suitor running the very same steps! It had me giggling even as my abused muscles protested! The view from the top was great, but still nothing like Notre Dame! The cloudy day had me missing some of the best parts! After looking my fill, I entered the church. I know it doesn’t come highly recommended, but I couldn’t resist such a holy place. I also know that photos are not allowed inside, but I couldn’t help it and snuck a few in. The domed ceiling and the beautiful ceiling above the main alter were awe-inspiring. Eve though the exterior was unlike any church I had ever seem, the interior magnified all that reminded me of holy places. I stopped to light a candle and say a prayer at an altar devoted to Mary. As I walked out, I was reminded that faith comes in many shapes and sizes. Even though Notre Dame is so famous, I sensed a greater eace and sanctity within the walls of Sacre Coeur.

I chose a different path for the journey down, this time amid a planted pathway. It was a lot more peaceful than the packed stairs, though at the end there were still several bracelet sellers. I was then back on the DK path, forging my way past tourists. The walk took me through some residential areas, and I saw some fabulous Montmartre apartments! This was about the point where I decided my move to Paris would be into this neighborhood, of course this was prior the achy feet. When I stopped at the next shady square I realized I was lost once more! I had to consult two maps before I realize up was the only way to go! I walked past some historical artist apartments and noticed some differences. These were hewn of a different stone and in a different style. At the top of the hill I stopped in for a crepe from a vendor.

Now I may have been tired and my toes may have been starting to whisper, but I could still read. The sign for a jambon & fromage (ham and cheese) crepe read 5,5 Euro. So I was quite pleased to have the correct change and handed it over. The lady gave me a funny look, repeated my order , which I confirmed, and she told me it was 4 Euro. Confused I took my crepe and walked away, even though the ex-cashier in me really wanted to correct her. Oh well…what can you do?

I took a spin around Place de Tetre, noticing how many “artists” had the exact same style and inspiration. They also had the audacity to charge exorbitant prices! On a lighter note, the caricature artists were fun to watch, especially one drawing elephant proportioned ears for a little boy’s portrait! I stopped in a few shops and finally succumbed to my temptation to buy a scarf! I found a unique pattern (only one at the store, let’s not mention the other store next door!). I few more interesting places on the walk: the Montmartre Museum Garden & Vineyard, Moulin (windmill) on Rue Lepic. By then my feet felt like they were walking on hot coals so I decided to head over to Park Monceau. I really had wanted a chance to go to this park and I was glad the opportunity showed up.

It is easy to find, right off the Monceau exit, can’t miss the golden gates!

The park was fun, a lot of children playing games, people enjoying the sun on the lawns. I bought myself a cone and joined the relaxing crowd. I strolled around enjoying the scenery, my favorite part being the Greek colonnade surrounding a pond. It was just simply picture perfect! I noticed DK had a walk for the neighborhood so after my toes were rested I headed out. The first point of interest was an amazing mansion right by the park. The wrought iron detail and decorated stone were wonderful, and the building itself impressive.

The rest of the walk is simple, with little of particular interest. It was mostly through residential areas where families were strolling. Before I got on the Metro, I noticed a Monoprix and stopped in since I needed some groceries. The store is similar to an American Target, but like most of Paris, much classier! The selection itself was amazing! Who knew there were so many yogurts, mustards, and wines?? Also, there was much less junk food and more organic type foods. I picked up a few things for dinner and headed back home. I made myself a petit salad and some chicken and rice (the extent of my cooking abilities!) I relaxed a bit listening to my new favorite station, Chantes France before deciding to sample the night life. Originally I planned on trying the Amnesia Bar, but the crows wasn’t very mixed and seemed a bit intimidating for me. I saw the Lizard Lounge but it was very much an American bar and a hunting ground for singles. I finally wound up at Rendez-vouz Des Amis, a little corner bar/restaurant. I did learn one thing, French alcohol is stronger than American. But that is not a subject for this blog!