Day 6 & 7: Chateaux

So this morning, I figured out I needed to be up fairly early, estimating that with possible misdirection and travel issues, I need to be out the door by 5:45 AM. Now anyone that knows me, also knows I am not a morning person. On top of this, I had gotten home fairly late from the bike tour. So in order to not miss my train, my body refused to let me sleep. This is what happens when you get paranoid, you think on it so much that not only does your brain not stop, but your body doesn’t either.

Before I knew it, it was 5 AM and I needed to pack up and go. After downing some coffee and packing my backpack for two days I left my home, already running several minutes late. Even though I factored in the possibility of being lost, I did not factor in that morning Metro trains do not run as often. So my paranoid self started toe tapping all the way to Montparnasse where I then practically sprinted out and followed the signs to the train station. I kept looking for car 14, but couldn’t find it, thinking it was very odd that all the trains were considered cars 1&2. It wasn’t till I got to the end that I realized, that it was not the cars labeled 1&2 but the class of car! I forgave myself my own stupidity assuming it was due to the early start!

The trip went by fast as I typed up some missing trip reports and watched the misty countryside go by. When we arrived at St.Pierre, I was still a little muddled and unsure as to how I was going to get to the Tours Tourism Office. Fortunately for me, the line waiting by the taxi stand gave it away. Now, I think this is cool so bear with me but my taxi ended up being a snazzy new BMW station wagon. I am much more used to my plain old car in the US, so this was a treat for me. A short ride later, I was at the office, the still closed office. So with nothing better to do, I took a walk around the neighborhood. Tours resembles Paris in many ways, same type of buildings, same cobblestones, etc. I did notice the abundance of lovely parks early on, and even sat down for a bit to appreciate the early morning peace. The office then opened and I went to inquire about getting on a tour of the chateaux. Unfortunately, Acco-Dispo had filled up and I wasn’t pre-booked. So I wound up going with a different company showing the same things. The driver wasn’t very talkative and my companions were a Japanese mother and daughter pair.

I actually think the funniest part of the day was when the two women saw the minivan. The tour company’s brochure shows an option that allows you to rent an antique car for the day, such as a Rolls Royce. However, this option is not typical and a special inquiry and price are required. The two women had not understood all of the brochure and thought they would be traveling in such a car! Now imagine their disappointment when they got a very plain minivan!

The van left the tourism office soon, and away we went for our first stop at Chenonceau.. The main reason I opted for a tour was because of the amount of chateaux it enables you to see. If I had rented a car, I would not have been able to get as many chateau in the same amount of time. You really have to be a crazy French driver to make it that quick! So away we hurtled to Chenonceau with our crazy French driver and our stick shift van.

We were dropped off at the castle for two hours and left to our own devices. I think Chenonceau became my favorite castle very quickly. I found it’s interior and exterior very beautiful and well maintained. On the inside, you viewed beautiful rooms with tapestry covered walls and old furniture. The kitchen was in a very old Medieval style and definitely roomy enough to service the entire castle. The rest of the rooms were quite comfy despite the grandeur, and it was easy to see a family residing there. The exterior of the castle looked very picturesque, especially the portion above the river. The gardens were beautiful, and created in the typical organized French style. I loved the geometry and organization of it all!

Soon we were back in the van, hurtling to Amboise. The countryside reminded me of Poland in some ways. The little houses with gardens and farmland, all so quaint and beautiful.

When we arrived in the town of Amboise, we had the option of touring both Clos Luce as well as the main Amboise chateau. I was curious to see where Da Vinci once called home so I opted for both chateaux. Da Vinci’s home was very small compared to the rest if the chateaux, but just as opulent. The furniture and tapestries were not lacking in richness. The view of the main castle from the windows gave me something to anticipate while looking over the small garden.

After finishing the visit there, I walked over and then up to Amboise. The chateaux is built very much like a fortress up above the entire town. I personally did not find the interior of Amboise striking. The exterior of the castle was pretty, and the views from the various towers and terraces were amazing!

Back down in the village I had a savory crepe at a little efficient restaurant with with very friendly servers/cashiers. I then walked over to the river, near the meeting point but since I had time I sat down on a bench with a view of the castle, bridge, and river. The bus was a little late since it picked up five more tourists, this time from China and Paris, and the drive changed to much friendlier Frank.

However, Frank was still our crazy French driver, so away we sped to Cheverny. I was exited about this chateaux, specifically to see the kennel. I missed my pup Tarzan, so I couldn’t wait to get a canine fix. Before that, I dutifully explored the castle and learned it was still partly inhabited by new owners. The rest of the castle is open to the public and filled with very pretty rooms, and some amazing furniture. Outside I headed over to the dogs. Now I do realize hounds often stay in packs, but not one hundred twenty dogs in one place!! I did enjoy seeing the dogs, who like most French dogs are very well behaved with no aggression. As I walked back to the van, I saw the gardeners mowing the lawn into gold course perfection. Seriously, the property is very clean and well maintained.

Our last stop was Chambord, with its 440 rooms and 365 fireplaces! The castle is impressive in architecture, very complex with an interesting double staircase in the center. The furniture is not as interesting as in Cheverny but there is a large quantity of it. Also based on photos and trophies, it looked like the past tenants had been fond of hunting. I didn’t find the interior as impressive as the exterior, it was just all too dreary and disorganized to me. It’s a gorgeous chateau, but not my choice in to live in!

Leaving the chateau, we headed back to Tours, and I actually fell asleep in the car in the one hour it took us to get back. Once back at the Tourism office, I started walking to the Hotel L’Adresse, backpack and all. The hotel is in the old district, with timber frame buildings. The walk wasn’t long, and soon I was at the very modern hotel. The receptionist was very friendly and helpful, the room was *tiny* but very clean, and the bathroom was very modern with a somewhat Asian influence. I dropped off my things and found a creperie for dinner. At the Lys d’Or, I tasted a Crepe Normande, with cheese, chicken, and mushrooms made into a delicious and hearty meal! I was too tired to do much else so I went back to my room and to sleep.

The next day I woke up and packed up, and went down to breakfast. It was your typical hotel breakfast, but the croissants were Delicious! I left my bag at the desk and checked out, and then headed back to the tourist office for my next tour. This time I did get Acco-Dispo and it became clear why they come so highly recommended. The driver, Pascal, gave us lots of information on the area of Tours, each chateau, and France in general. He even gave us tips on how best to tackle the chateaux. My companions this time were the same Chinese tourist from the day before and a friendly Brazilian couple. We chatted a bit on the ride, and it made it much quicker.

Our first stop was Villandry. If anyone is a fan of the French garden, Villandry is a must! Pascal recommended we only pay to visit the garden, and that was more than enough to keep us busy for the allotted time. When we first entered, it was up at the top of a terrace and we had a view of all three gardens. They are simply amazing and being anything I have ever seen! One garden is a water garden, one is a kitchen garden, one is a scent/medicinal garden, and the last is purely ornamental. All combined create a beautiful pattern when looked at from above. Inside the actual garden, it is equally beautiful even in the rows of lettuce and tomato. I think the color organization and the patterns make for a beautiful view no matter where you stand!

Sadly, the visit was short and we were soon on our way to Azay-le-Rideau. The village surrounding this chateau is very picturesque. Actually when we got out, I noticed a little black cat playing with a mouse in the garden of a home. I don’t think the poor mouse made it, but it was interesting seeing the cat toss it up since I only thought this happened in Tom & Jerry! I also found it weird that black cats have been following me, since I also saw one in Montmartre.

This chateau was quite small, but beautifully decorated. I think the interior was the best I have seen. I found out from Pascal that Chenonceau and Azay are both designed by women, hence they are more cozy and better organized. He pointed out the kitchens, which are more noticeable than in any other castle. In truth, I don’t recall kitchens in Cheverny or Chambord! All the rooms in Azay are very rich with many tapestries and paintings, but they look livable! My favorite room was the family drawing room, where I wish I could have curled up in a chair with a good book! The property and building itself are very cute! The chateau looks like it is floating on water due to the large moat surrounding it.

The van then took us back to Tours where I had time to wander about before my train back to Paris. I ended up finding several picturesque gardens, where I just sat down for a bit and watched people or wrote in my notebook. After one of the gardens, I saw a cathedral and decided to pay a visit. It ended up being beautiful! It was built in the same style as Notre Dame, but like St. Eustache it was much more airy and light. In fact, it had the best stained glass windows I have seen. Each set of windows told some kind of story and there were notes explaining it. The church was very empty and definitely felt like a church, so I made my way around to see the windows before taking some time at one of the altars devoted to Mary and saying a prayer.

After leaving the church, I headed over to the Grand Passage in search of lunch. I found a little café and followed my rule for the plat du jour. The entrée was good, a tomato and mozzarella dish. But the main course…. It was a steak type meat, but very pink..as in my sauce was going from brown to reddish brown when I sliced a piece off. It didn’t look appealing, so it didn’t taste amazing. Also people that know me, know I don’t like vein-y meat. This piece of meet was vein-y and at one point it had me gagging as I tried to eat it. I think my stomach is still not over the mean thing I did to it. So I think, next time I will drop my plat du jour scheme and go for chicken!

After lunch I wound up walking to the river walk and just sitting in the sun for a while. I had nothing to do and my toes deserved a rest, so I sat down and watched the people. Young couples strolling, a group of what I consider punk/goth youths with several dogs, and then families enjoying the day. After an hour or so, I decided I needed a caffeine boost so I went back to the town center to a café and ordered my café crème and watched the busy shoppers. There was a Printemps department store nearby, not too mention several smaller stores so shopping seemed to be very popular. After my coffee I walked back to the hotel to pick up my bag, and then walked to the train station to catch a taxi to the TGV station, where I had some time to kill. I found a good book at the magazine shop, A Year in Merde, so I sat down to read a bit. The book is hilarious, and about a man who comes to France from England and all his mis-adventures. I was glad I could understand so much of it! Once the train arrived, it was a short ride to Paris and then home!

PS I will post more pictures when Blogger fixes the problem with uploading pics.

Day 5: Bizarre Art and Bikes

My plans for Sunday started out just like any other Sunday at home, with a mass.
The difference this time was that mass was at the beautuful gothic St. Eustache and included the organs being played and a small choir singing. I got up in time for the morning mass and headed over via Metro, before walking through Les Halles to the church. When I approached it, I could already hear the choir starting the processional so I ducked inside.

The set up for mass is not like the churches back home, instead of pews there are individual seats set up without the kneelers. I kept staring up at the vaulted ceilings and admiring the acoustics. The choir could not have had more than a dozen people, yet there voices filled the church without the use of microphones. Since mass was in French I did not understand much of it, but the choir was moving and the when the organ started playing...it was intense. It seemed that a rumble had started, much like the rumble before a big storm, but instead of raindrops, the church was filled with music. It is truly an amazing experience and I encourage everyone to sit down at any gothic church and listen to such a concert.

Even though Eustache and Notre Dame are both Gothic churches, there were severak differences. When viewing Notre Dame, you can almost imagine the hunchback swinging from the towers. The gargoyles seem right in place. At Eustache, you are more likely to see cherubs than any gloomy being. The light that filters into the church is clear and fills the entire church expelling all gloom and darkness. The stone also seems lighter, even though the vaulting is equally impressive. After the mass, I stayed a little to listen to the organ finish it's concert, letting the waves of sound wash over me.

Once mass and the concert were over, I went outside and noticed a little market had been set up. The vendors sold all manners of fish, fruits, and flowers, all colorfully displayed. After browsing I went to the cafe next door and enjoyed a cafe creme while verifing my further plans. While sitting there, I saw a young man dressed in a winter coat (the type with a fur trim) walking down the street. It was clear that he was imitating an American gangster, but in Paris it was entirely out of place!

After my coffee I walked over to the Musee Picasso only stopping once to sit down in a little park. The park was shaded and filled with people enjoying books and papers. The actual museum had no line and I got in right away. Right away I noticed the architecture and the ceilings of the building. ( I think I am starting to be a little obsessed with the different ceiling types and designs!) As for the actual artwork....well...it's Picasso!
I liked the geometry and lines of some of his work, but other things were not comprehendable! The artwork that was more realistic seemed a bit empty, and lacked life that some other painters infused into their work. It was almost like he painted them to prove he could, but refocused on his true passion.

he statues were fun, but not really my cup of tea. The goat and the monkey were my favorites, though there weren't that many. I liked the way the museum was organized, where you can read the brochure and understand the workings from room to room. It all had an order and you wouldn't miss anything.

After the Picasso, I stopped at home for lunch, which I actually picked up at the famous L'as du Falafel. I can't say falafels are my favorite food, but those served at the very busy L'As were yummy! I checked on my reservation for Fat Tire for that night and then headed out for round two of bizarre art, Centre Pompidou. The are around the museum was filled with sun bathers and street performers, and had a festive atmosphere. The fountains also added to the fun.


I went inside to buy my ticket, ad went up the external escalator. I will tell you this much, if it wasn't for the work by Matisse and a few others, the museum would have been a waste of time and money. As is the first gallery, was in my mind awful. How some of the things can be deemed art is beyond me! The upper gallery was a bit better, with more well known and decipherable paintings. I didn't spend much time there anyway, and soon was on the terracem enjoying yet another view.

Once I left the museum, I headed out to the Eiffel Tower to meet my bike and bike group. It turns out that they run several evening tours so everyone gets to go. Once a large of Aussies, Canadians, Americans, and British had gathered we went to pick up bikes and head out. We all got to wear stylish safety vests, in order to remain visible as evening came. I was a bit worried about bikeriding in Paris, but traveling in such a large group made it easy. We took over the bike lanes and sometimes regular lanes and never were we hassled. The ride took us through St.Germain, Ile de La Cite (where we all stopped to get Berthillions.) The pace we kept was brisk but easy to maintain. The highlights for me was viewing the Louvre all lit up and then as we headed to the Tuilleries, the ET lit up and sparkled. It all looked so magical and beautiful that it would be hard not to fall in love with Paris if you hadn't already done so!

We rode our bikes to the Baton Mouche station and boarded one of the cruises. These cruises are fun and gorgeous because the boats use a spotlight to light everything up. Also perhaps the wine being passed around made it fun too!

The boat took us up to Ile St. Louis and then back down to where the skyscrapers stood, even though I hate to call that part Paris since it is so different! The group was fun and by the end of the boat & bike ride, several people had made new friends! We were also quite fortunate to see the tower light up again as we pulled up at the bike shop. All in all it was a wonderful ride and I highly recommend it. The guides make Paris manageable and are very helpful!

Day 4: Up and Away

Well, I guess bravery and non-achy feet come with time. I am not going to be able to jump into new things right away, but for now I can at least make my attempts. What this means is that a solo traveler may have the advantage of only being responsible for themselves, but they are also responsible for their own entertainment and fun.

I have the advantage of going at my own pace, I see what I want to see and make my own plans and then change them at will. Like the other day: I crossed off Sainte Chappelle from the day’s itinerary at the last moment. Now if my traveling companion was set on seeing it then and there, I would have a problem. So that is the bonus, now for the bad side: going to cafés and bars is not easy. You always feel a bit awkward and assume people will notice you are on your own., yet you still want a taste of the atmosphere. I think it is a situation that gets better with time and practice, but for now the awkwardness still reins.

So on to my adventures….

The plan was to visit Montmartre and Sacre Coeur, with a free afternoon to be used for whims (How unlike me!). Since I really had no specific way I wanted to tackle Montmartre, I decided to copy the directions for a walk guided by the DK Eyewitness book for Paris. This seemed simple enough, although I knew my luck was running out and soon I would be losing the sense of direction I never had. Regardless, I am an adventurous soul in France, so upwards and onwards! Literally!

I made myself get up early in the morning to get my morning baguette. Unfortunately the bakery first recommended to me was closed, so I wandered a bit before finding a petit boulangerie and getting my baguette. At the apartment I had some coffee and strawberry preserves to complement my baguette and soon I was on my way. Of course my plan was written down in my notebook, and I knew where I was going….sorta.

Unfortunately my confidence on the Metro got the better of me, and my favorite metro station turned into a maze when I tried to transfer trains at Concord. I missed the sign that told me to turn, which led me down the wrong hall to the wrong train line. Of course a lot of the signs face only one direction so walking back, I didn’t see the sign again! Finally I did figure it out, and found the train to Pigalle. This is where things got complex. My lovely DK book turned out to be no help when navigating the streets when exiting the Metro. I started walking in own direction till I finally got a semblance of my bearings. Once on the DK path I started worrying that I had found myself in the heart of the Red Light district. The first street was lined peep shows and some crazy stores, and to me it was a bit shocking. As someone I know would say, my bubble shrunk and quite unnecessarily! Fortunately for my bubble, the was the only such street on the walk. As I turned the corner I was in what I dubbed Guitar Lane. The little street was lined with stores selling guitars and musical gizmos and gadgets. The path led me by a little florist shops and then through a bit of residential area.

Now this is where things got sticky. The DK directions didn’t provide street names at times and so I had consulted another map to get them. Unfortunately the part of the map I needed was where it folded over, leaving me to puzzle it out. I had thought I did ok…

But following the revised directions, I found myself going down the wrong street ad the wrong way (Let’s just say I temporarily forgot to check which hand I write with to verify directions). After a bit of stumbling about, I found a street on the original set of directions and was back on the path. I was surrounded by little shop with fabrics of all types and colors, and I began to wish that I had a project lined up that required me to sew let alone I began to wish that I knew how to sew! I had some fun ducking into these stores anyway, taking a peak at all the wares. Further down the street, I was surrounded by fabrics of a different type, those of the scarves for sale at cheap souvenir shops. I admit they are quite pretty, but they become repetitive in the end. I walked along the street hoping to find something for the little ones back home but nothing really caught my eye. I walked on and soon saw Sacre Coeur towering above me on its pedestal like hill. Immediately the bracelet sellers swarmed around me like flies to fresh fruit. They were awfully insistent despite my firm “Non, Merci”. I think at one point a spurned vendor began a tirade with a fair amount of swearing in English and French! I take it that it wasn’t a good day for him, too many tourists having done their research. Unfortunately just as many hadn’t and I just wanted to shout out for them to avoid them at all costs.

At that point, I stepped off the DK path and decided to visit Sacre Coeur. As I started my climb, I remembered the scene from Amelie where she had her poor suitor running the very same steps! It had me giggling even as my abused muscles protested! The view from the top was great, but still nothing like Notre Dame! The cloudy day had me missing some of the best parts! After looking my fill, I entered the church. I know it doesn’t come highly recommended, but I couldn’t resist such a holy place. I also know that photos are not allowed inside, but I couldn’t help it and snuck a few in. The domed ceiling and the beautiful ceiling above the main alter were awe-inspiring. Eve though the exterior was unlike any church I had ever seem, the interior magnified all that reminded me of holy places. I stopped to light a candle and say a prayer at an altar devoted to Mary. As I walked out, I was reminded that faith comes in many shapes and sizes. Even though Notre Dame is so famous, I sensed a greater eace and sanctity within the walls of Sacre Coeur.

I chose a different path for the journey down, this time amid a planted pathway. It was a lot more peaceful than the packed stairs, though at the end there were still several bracelet sellers. I was then back on the DK path, forging my way past tourists. The walk took me through some residential areas, and I saw some fabulous Montmartre apartments! This was about the point where I decided my move to Paris would be into this neighborhood, of course this was prior the achy feet. When I stopped at the next shady square I realized I was lost once more! I had to consult two maps before I realize up was the only way to go! I walked past some historical artist apartments and noticed some differences. These were hewn of a different stone and in a different style. At the top of the hill I stopped in for a crepe from a vendor.

Now I may have been tired and my toes may have been starting to whisper, but I could still read. The sign for a jambon & fromage (ham and cheese) crepe read 5,5 Euro. So I was quite pleased to have the correct change and handed it over. The lady gave me a funny look, repeated my order , which I confirmed, and she told me it was 4 Euro. Confused I took my crepe and walked away, even though the ex-cashier in me really wanted to correct her. Oh well…what can you do?

I took a spin around Place de Tetre, noticing how many “artists” had the exact same style and inspiration. They also had the audacity to charge exorbitant prices! On a lighter note, the caricature artists were fun to watch, especially one drawing elephant proportioned ears for a little boy’s portrait! I stopped in a few shops and finally succumbed to my temptation to buy a scarf! I found a unique pattern (only one at the store, let’s not mention the other store next door!). I few more interesting places on the walk: the Montmartre Museum Garden & Vineyard, Moulin (windmill) on Rue Lepic. By then my feet felt like they were walking on hot coals so I decided to head over to Park Monceau. I really had wanted a chance to go to this park and I was glad the opportunity showed up.

It is easy to find, right off the Monceau exit, can’t miss the golden gates!

The park was fun, a lot of children playing games, people enjoying the sun on the lawns. I bought myself a cone and joined the relaxing crowd. I strolled around enjoying the scenery, my favorite part being the Greek colonnade surrounding a pond. It was just simply picture perfect! I noticed DK had a walk for the neighborhood so after my toes were rested I headed out. The first point of interest was an amazing mansion right by the park. The wrought iron detail and decorated stone were wonderful, and the building itself impressive.

The rest of the walk is simple, with little of particular interest. It was mostly through residential areas where families were strolling. Before I got on the Metro, I noticed a Monoprix and stopped in since I needed some groceries. The store is similar to an American Target, but like most of Paris, much classier! The selection itself was amazing! Who knew there were so many yogurts, mustards, and wines?? Also, there was much less junk food and more organic type foods. I picked up a few things for dinner and headed back home. I made myself a petit salad and some chicken and rice (the extent of my cooking abilities!) I relaxed a bit listening to my new favorite station, Chantes France before deciding to sample the night life. Originally I planned on trying the Amnesia Bar, but the crows wasn’t very mixed and seemed a bit intimidating for me. I saw the Lizard Lounge but it was very much an American bar and a hunting ground for singles. I finally wound up at Rendez-vouz Des Amis, a little corner bar/restaurant. I did learn one thing, French alcohol is stronger than American. But that is not a subject for this blog!

Lapse in Posting

Do not be worried, I am still thriving and having fun in Paris.
I have been getting in somewhat late so the blog has been put on hold. Hopefully I'll have it written up on the Train on my way to Tours.

For now suffice to say: I went on Fat Tire, and I saw ET sparkle, and it was magic!

Day 3: New Heights

Before I get into my adventures for today, I just like to mention something silly. Sitting at dinner yesterday I discovered that I can identify Americans even when they speak very proper French. A young woman had been sitting next to me and something just seemed un-French about her. Then I noticed her book was in English and she paid with a B of A card. It turned out she was a student studying in Paris, and indeed was not French. I guess no matter what you wear, how you speak, you can't pretend to be French!

Now onto the day's adventure!
I have discovered my penchant for oversleeping on Friday's followed me to Paris! (Joanna where were you?!). So rather than go and get a baguette, I just had some cereal and yogurt. I decided to stop for coffee somewhere along the way to my first stop: Notre Dame. Due to the success of my walking adventure yesterday, I decided to continue walking about. I headed over Pont Louis Phillipe only to stop at Le Lutetia for a cafe creme. The view was beautiful, looking out over the Seine and with Notre Dame visible. I wrote a few postcards, noticing that the pace on the little island was slower than in the Marais. After finishing off my coffee, I headed down the next bridge to get to Ile de la Cite.

Approaching Notre Dame, I was awestruck! I was prepared a large cathedral, but this was beyond large! I noticed a line had formed for the climb upwards and so I decided to join in on the wait. I figured that the climb wouldn't be bad and I would get a nice view. The wait wasn't completely awful. I heard so many languages that I began to try to guess nationalities, it was a fun game and kept me busy and in no time my turn was up. Now if you have climbed Notre Dame, you know how high I was about to go up and how steep the stairs were at parts. I became convinced that this was the very reason why French women are slim and there are no Bally's in site. All they have to do is climb up to the tower and be done with it! I think along the way I started cursing my lack of an exercise regime and every non-healthy food I had ever eaten. Once at the top though, any breath I had still had was swept away by the view. It was the type of view that makes you feel atop of the world, the type of view that really makes you appreciate the beauty of Paris, the type of view that makes you forget your fear of heights! I think I snapped a picture from every direction! You could see Montmartre, the Eiffel Tower, all the cathedrals in the area, and then some more sites that I haven't yet identified! It was truly a view to be savored.

I continued onwards after regaining my breath, only to be faced with another set of steps to the very top of the other tower. I went forward once more, my legs beginning to feel like jelly but I was anticipating another beautiful view. I definitely was not disappointed! The view now included the surrounding parts of the cathedral, the spires, the gargoyles and the other tower. And to think this was all built before machinery of any sort was really in use! Makes you really appreciate what man is capable of!

On the way down I realized that walking down steps works a whole different set of muscles that I never knew existed. No Stairmaster could ever achieve the same results! Once down below I rested momentarily trying to shed that jelly feeling in my legs. I took some exterior pictures of the cathedral and it's tympanum. The carvings are absolutely remarkable! The details that have gone into the carvings are masterful and just keep your eyes constantly moving. I noticed several women wandering the crowd asking for money from those who spoke English, I played it safe and didn't stop to read the signs claiming only my Polish heritage and made sure my bag was closed up. I then went inside the cathedral, and as the trend seemed to be, I was breathless once more! The interior of the cathedral is like nothing I have ever seen. the heights achieved by the vaulting seem to reach out to touch something I had thought would be out of reach. The stained glass windows pierced the dimly lit interior with jewels of light. While admiring all my surroundings, I made sure to light a candle for my entire family.

Once outside again, I went over to a crepe vendor to get a bite to eat. I noticed they sold baguette hot-dogs, and since they were highly recommended from a co-worker I decided to try one. To my delight, I noticed the vendors spoke Polish! I asked them for a hot-dog in Polish and they flat out told me they would not sell me one! They were quite friendly and chattered a bit with me. The young man told me that even though he makes them himself, they are quite horrible and I shouldn't buy them. They instead sent me away to a place across the bridge for something different! As I walked away, I noticed that they did sell one to a poor unknowing American tourist!

The place they sent me was off Rue de la Huchette. Now I had been warned about this street, so I approached with caution. The place I had been sent to was a Gyro place, which I never actually have tried. It was filled with people, both foreign and French so I stopped in an ordered my first gyro ever. I have to say it was delicious! Very quick, but very filling. I wandered around a bit, in search of souvenirs, searching for a "real" French beret. I found nothing of the sort but did stumble upon St.Severin. This wasn't on my list, but I stopped in to take a peak. Unfortunately Notre Dame had spoiled me it wasn't as appealing. I moved on towards my next stop: Sainte Chappelle.

Walking along the Seine, I made the decision to actually skip Sainte Chappelle for the day. I really wanted to see the stained glass in all it's glory and the cloudy sky wouldn't help. So I decided to explore Ile de La Cite a bit. Crossing the bridge I noticed a familiar name: Berthillion! I know the main store closes in August, but the ice cream came so highly recommended, particularly by one forum member! So I ordered a cone with citron vert and framboise. It was absolutely delightful! Different from last night's gelato, but wonderful. Eating my cone, I walked down to Place Dauphine and further down to the little park at the tip of the island. The park was so peaceful, a few children chasing birds, couples sitting together, old and young. I liked it so much that I decided to rest my feet, and read a bit. My next stop was the Louvre, where I planned to take advantage of free entry for young adults, but that wasn't till six. So I sat with my book, read a bit and people watched. I found it amusing how tourists came in searching for a big "something", clutching guidebooks, and finding nothing they walked out. Little did they know that the "something" was buried in the peace and beauty of the park.

After relaxing a bit, I moved on to find the Louvre. I got there quickly enough, passing a ghostly Samartine store. The store was closed a while back, but from my research it once had a great view from the roof. Now it was just an empty husk. As I approached the Louvre I noticed a little church nearby with it's bells tolling. Since I had time, I popped in for a peek. The pretty little church was St. Germain L'Auxerrois . It had a beautiful altar, and some spectacular vaulting. It didn't have the crowds of tourists, so it retained the feeling of a holy place. Once I had said a quick prayer I left for the Louvre.

I entered through the main entrance as the line was short and moving quickly. Under the pyramid it was all so clean and pristine with people bustling about. I'm sure that the amount of people there is probably nowhere near the amount during the day, but it still seemed like a busy anthill! I made the decision to tackle one wing tonight and leave the other for next Friday. My choice was the Denon wing, home of the famous Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Venus de Milo. I actually decided to go there since the large part was sculpute and I had my fair share of paintings at D'Orsay yesterday. From the sculptures my favorites were Artemis with arrows and a deer, Venus with a cherub trying on the helmet, and a lion playing with a ball. The lion had this fun look in his eye that reminded me of Tarzan when he was about to tackle me! Of the paintings, my favorites were:
*Les Exploreurs, Leopold, Robert
* Les Saisons, Giuseppe Arcimboldo
* Horseman, Antoine Jean Gros

Notice: Mona Lisa is not impressive, I'm not sure why it is so popular. I think the curators realize this too, because in the same gallery, right across from the Mona Lisa, they hung an amazing painting, much larger, and in my humble opinion much more beautiful. It's like a private joke the curators have going!

I think in some galleries, I enjoyed looking the ceilings more than the actual displays. It didn't hit me till the Apollo Gallery that the Louvre was once inhabited. It just seemed so ornate and rich, it was a bit hard to fathom someone actually ate and slept in some of the rooms! After looking my fill in the Denon gallery I headed out because my feet were starting to ache! I knew next week I'd be back so I wasn't worried about missing anything. I stopped in the cafe downstairs for a quick cafe creme and then headed back outside.

At this point it was getting dark so I waited for things to light up. The Ferris wheel was going, all bright and flashy. And the Eiffel tower lit up (not the sparkles), and then the Louvre. Wandering the Tuillerrie Garden, I was approached by men offering bracelets. Now this part my father should be proud of: normally I would stop to chat with these men, but according to my research it's a scam. They make you pay quite a bit for a cheap bracelet, so I said no and walked on. Sitting on a bench, another gentleman approached me attempting to chatter. I played the Polish tourist while making sure my bag was secure. Of course I was here with family! Of course they were nearby! Oh and there they are, Au Revoir! There was no danger, no threat, but I wasn't taking chances so I left. I still feel safer in Paris than in Chicago, but that may be because I more on my guard since I am alone! My experiences do not have me worried, more like I am proud that I handled myself as was appropriate!

After resting a bit, I headed towards the metro for my ride home. By then, I was feeling more confident and less timid. I knew where I was going, and I knew whatever came my way I could handle it.

Day 2: Adventure in Paris

Morning
So today, after sleeping an ungodly amount of hours no matter which country I am in, I became brave and ventured out to find my first cafe creme. I read the rules on finding a place to eat and it meant finding a place with a crowd of French people. Anyone who knows me, knows how intimidating crowds can be for me. But I decided I can't be in Paris and be afraid of everything! So I ventured out into the Marais along Rue Archives and Rue Rivoli, which led me to a cafe called Le Bucheron. It is a tiny place by American standards, but I have a hunch that it is considered quite roomy in Paris. I ordered the much raved about cafe creme and sat back to people watch. The weather is a bit crummy but that doesn't seem to stop the people from bustling about. It seems everyone is already dressed for the Fall, boots, scarves, and leather. I decided I really stick out with my clothes reminiscent of summer, but, as I was assured, tourism is expected here! :P

I've noticed a grocery store across the street so that is my next stop. Even though this coffee is delicious I need regular food for the apartment! Maybe some milk and cereal or some jam for a baguette. I woke up too late to get one today, but tomorrow I am stopping by the bakery to get one. It is all so quaint and Parisian, it is no wonder that so many writers are inspired by the city. I wish I was a better writer to transcribe it all on paper, but alas, I am a numbers gal! Words don't just flow as well from my pen or keyboard despite the surroundings.

Today's game plan was simple: breakfast, grocery shopping, Eiffel Tower, Musee D'Orsay. I hope the Metro is easier to navigate than the post-Roissy bus taxi search! I have no desire to become soaked again...

Evening

What a day, what a day!!! I've been to places straight out of movies and pictures, and through it all I didn't get lost! Granted I really didn't have a set of directions to follow, but nonetheless I didn't get lost! At the grocery store I found some milk which I think is suitable for drinking (they didn't have 2 %) and some other edibles. After dropping off the groceries I found the metro and purchased my carnet (a set of 10 tickets). The train arrived shortly after , and it was great! Nothing like the Chicago El, it was clean, quick, and on time. I decided to do some walking so I got off a station earlier than I needed to at Tuilleries. I think that exiting the Metro, I must have walked into a dream. I found myself in a beautiful garden with a small carnival taking place. A beautiful carousel and ferris wheel were taking kids and adults for rides. As I walked further, I really started to believe I was walking into a dream. On my right, I had my very first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower. Since it was a bit cloudy, the view was not spectacular, but the Eiffel Tower has a presence that illuminates the day. I still had exploring to do before heading that way, so I turned to my left and saw a familiar building, the Louvre! Logically I knew it would be there, but it was a nice surprise anyway! It seemed I hit the jackpot! The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and down the lawn, L'Arc de Triomphe! I had to literally take a seat since my head began to spin! I was surrounded by all that Paris was famous for, and it was really sinking in! I noticed I no longer stuck out since I was surrounded by tourists of all shapes, sizes, colors, and manners of dress. Here I was one of many, while in the Marais I was one of few!

or two. It was then I made the decision to walk to the Eiffel Tower. OI wandered in the gardens for a bit because I wouldn't be my father's daughter if I hadn't learned to appreciate a prettydahliaK, maybe it wasn't then, maybe it was when I missed the turn for the Metro station. Once I realized I had walked too far, I decided to walk all the way. Easy enough, right? I mean the Eiffel Tower is hard to miss. That part is true, but I grossly underestimated the distance. Lucky for me, I had good shoes on and Paris is very walkable. I just picked a street and strolled, thanking Tarzan in my mind for unknowingly having trained me for such walks! I loved the neighborhoods with their pretty mansard roofs and the beautiful doorways! It was amazing how different Paris is, yet it is still quite similar. I passed by a little girl with her mother looking at a store window, the girl crying as her mother pulled her away. I understood that she wanted something from the store, and I thought it to be a toy or perhaps candy. But it turned out that the little tot was a fashionista in training!! She had wanted a beautiful embroidered coat and matching shoes. It was then and there I decided I must have French blood in me since I love shoes so much!

Walking onwards, I passed through some streets and ended up in a garden. Having checked my map before, I knew there shouldn't be any parks between me and the ET. So I realized I must have arrived at the Champ de Mars. I looked up and saw the Eiffel Tower looming above me. Once more, I skipped ahead snapping pictures left and right! I saw more tourist gathering around the elevators, but decided it wasn't going to be today for me. I prefer facing my fear of heights for a day with a good view!:P I got a nice French woman to take a picture of me, and then an English mother/daughter duo. After snapping more photos than necessary I headed to the Musee D'Orsay. Despite what was on my map, the RER line does not run between Invalides and Orsay! There is a separate bus that runs between the two stops. I learned this from a friendly lady who must have noticed my almost lost look. The bus arrived quickly and I headed down the street only to be sidetracked by a creperie! I had to try just one.... and I was hungry! So I dipped into the food budget and got a nutella filled crepe. Mmm-Mmm-mmm! I savored the delicious confection and went on to the museum. There was a line, but in my chocolate inspired daze, I didn't care! It was actually quick and I was in before the rain started again. I did get an audio guide, but for me it was a waste of money. I did not have the patience to listen to everything being said!

I did enjoy the sculptures, but my favorites were the painting by Manet and Renoir. I ended up with 2 favorite paintings. One was by Jean Delville, entitled L'Ecole de Platon. The other was by Alexandre Cabanel, entitled Naissance de Venus. I also really enjoyed a room on the upper level. As soon as I walked in, my jaw dropped. The room was gilded in gold, with beautiful chandeliers and mirrors. It was a room straight out of a King's chateau! After awhile my feet began to ache so I left the museum in seach of supper. My first choice in restaurant was closed, so I headed back to the apartment and went to a nearby cafe, Les Philosophes. I was a bit adventurous and decided to order whatever was on the menu for the day. I have no food allergies, and I thought it was a good way to try something new. I ended up with a yummy soup, a mix of broccoli and potatoe soup. Whatever it was it hit the spot, since by then it was pouring again and the outside seating was chilly. the main course was a beef with rice and veggies. The beef, which I don't normally eat, was cooked medium well, which I don't normally eat. I eyed the pink tinge of the meat with apprehension but tried it anyway. It was pretty good! Similar to how my mom makes it at home, just not as well done. I ate it up and then went down the street for some gelato from Amorino. It was VERY good, nothing likein hand I made my way up to the studio, up the very long staircase (5th Floor!!!). And so ended my first full the gelato place at DePaul. With that day in Paris, fulfilling in every sense!

Day 1: Arrival in the Rain

I have finally made it to Paris! Hip Hip Hooray!

I left O'Hare yesterday evening, leaving a teary eyed sister and father and heading to Zurich for the first leg of the trip. I guess I never really thought the trip was such a big deal, but it turns out it has my dad worried sick. Which mean I have to be extra careful so as to not worry anywhere anymore.

The flight was uneventful, my seatmate was an older Swissman who didn't say much. This left me to read, watch tv, and eventual attempt and fail at getting sleep. At the point where I was just about to fall asleep, the captain announced the landing. Zurich Airport was quite clean and very easy to navigate.

I was at the right gate in no time, and before I knew it we were off to Paris. I almost wish the flight had been longer because I finally started sleeping. The airport in Paris, CDG, was a bit chaotic but eventually I found the Roissy bus that would take me to Opera. The bus ride was quick, but in that time it had started to pour!!! I still caught glimpses of beautiful Montmartre and Galleries Lafayette, which just gave me such an energy boost that I couldn't wait to get off the bus. When we all got off the bus we ran for cover, taking all available spaces under the overhangs. I knew my next step was to find a cab, but I didn't see any taxi stands in site. I ended up walking a few streets over and managed to grab a taxi without getting thoroughly soaked. I was able to give the taxi driver the apartment address, and off we went. This time the ride took me past the Louvre adn Hotel de Ville.
When I saw the glass pyramid and the beautiful building of the Louvre, it finally hit me: I was in Paris!

At the apartment, the owner was very helpful providing me with many books and maps and pamphlets about Paris. He showed me around the tiny apartment and handed over the keys. When he left I called home, left messages for the parents, and then after unpacking, I went to explore. I walked along Rue du Rivoli , Rue Bourg Tiobourg and explored the side streets. I wasn't in the mood for a big meal but I stopped in a bakery to get a chicken sandwich. I was so proud of the fact I could actually order it! It wasn't anything complicated, but I did it!

I walked back over to the apartment, climbed the never-ending stairs and had my dinner.
I made tea and sat down to listen to a great French station playing some of my favorites (MC Solaar and Garou among others). Occasionally I can hear the church bells ring from the open window making it all seem quite surreal, yet it all feels right. I just hope it stays that way!

I went over my itinerary for tomorrow, and there is a chance my bike tour will be on for tomorrow. I couldn't do it today due to the rain, but I still want to go for it!
We shall see what tomorrow brings, but for now sleep calls and I'm answering!