Final Days in Paris

On the dawn of my last Monday in Paris, I realized I had not done much shopping and I had a wish list from home! I had wine to find, some foodstuffs, and something strictly Paris! So after a quick stop at a café, I went to the BHV store nearby. I’ve walked by the place several times, but hadn’t really stopped in yet. The place is pretty neat, you can find everything there! There is an amazing section of art supplies, so I picked up a few things for my younger sister. They had many types of oils and pastels, it would have been a paradise for her! I glanced through the racks of clothes, but no one on my list really wanted clothes. It was still interesting to see the fashions there, and the prices seemed pretty reasonable. A few levels up I explored their kitchen section and had found so many fun gadgets that I’ve never seen at home! The few things I saw that my sister would like (she’s picky), weren’t made in France or weren’t very packable! So I moved on to yet another level and found the toys! There are some really neat toys in Europe, I had already picked some things up in a toy store in Tours, but with three nieces it would never be enough! I love wooden toys and they aren’t as easy to find in the US, or as affordable. I found a block set for the youngest niece, and a cute wooden train for the tomboy. I explored the rest of store, even the hardware level. The entire store has pretty much everything that you may need for your home, and it was pretty neat to explore!

Before heading pack to drop off my purchases, I stopped at a vendor near the Pompidou to pick up a few more inexpensive scarves for friends back home. I still had to find something for my sister, so I consulted my friends at OurParis and was directed to the Pylones store, which happened to be down the street. The shop is so adorable!! There are so many household things formed into fanciful and cute items. I had a hard time choosing anything, so I decided to hold off on making a purchase. Instead I went down to the Pantheon and St.Etienne. Unfortunately, I had not consulted my schedule or spreadsheet because I failed to realize that the church would be closed that day! I still had fun exploring the area and looking into some of the shops. I actually found a wine store, Nicolas, and stopped in to pick up some wine to bring home. The salesperson was extremely helpful, especially since I know virtually nothing about wine! All I knew was I needed a nice burgundy wine and a white wine. He helped me pick out something that he thought my family would like, and I could afford! He gave me some tips as to how to pack it before I left,, and wished me a happy remainder of my stay.

I was extremely pleased and happy after my purchases, so I stopped back to drop off the wine and decided to consult my restaurant list for a nice dinner that night. I had decided that I did not want to take my final meal the next night since I had an early flight Wednesday, so my final dinner would be Monday. After checking my list, I decided on the Coude Fou , also right down the street from home. By this time I had realized how amazing my apartment location was, so close to so many great restaurants, stores, and within reach of everything I needed!

I took a short nap since I had time before dinner, and then made the obligatory calls home. I still had time before dinner, so I wandered the neighborhood soaking it all in. I eventually made my way back to Coude Fou and went in for my dinner. It wasn’t very crowded yet, so I was seated immediately and had a great waiter serve me. He helped me pick out a good wine for dinner. I can’t remember what my entrée was, but my plat was absolutely delicious like nothing else! Terrines de canard aux figues….mmmm. It was so tender and pretty much converted this chicken eater, to become strictly duck!

For dessert I head a great crème brulee, with a blueberry topping! To top it all off, I had a nice café noir. The whole dinner lasted awhile, but it was so good that it did not seem slow. It was a very affordable dinner, and very much worth the price. The décor was great too, the walls had murals painted of various scenes, the one I was seated next to was a nautical scene. I was so full that I could barely walk home, but I was so pleased!

The next day, I headed to Pylones to pick up my last gifts, having decided on a doggie cake server and a sugar pourer shaped like a round lady. With my shopping done, I went pack to St.Etienne and the Pantheon. St.Etienne is a beautiful church, a bit of the late gothic style with very intricate stonework one on the choir screen. It was very quiet when I visited, with only a few other people, so it felt like I had the place to myself. The remains of St. Genevieve are said to be held at the church and there is an altar dedicated to her, where even the previous pope had visited.

I went next door, to the Pantheon next, and it is a remarkable difference in styles!! I did enjoy the Pantheon, especially the murals. They were very beautiful and so vibrant! The architecture of the Pantheon is very interesting as well, and the carving on the dome is beautiful. In the crypts, I saw the tombs of several authors and famous people. I made sure to take a picture of Marie Curie’s tomb, because as I told my parents, she is proof that a Polish woman need only marry a French man to be successful!

After visiting the crypts, I decided that I still had time to visit the Jardin des Plantes. Being used to walking by now, I headed over to the garden by foot. I took a path that led me by the river. It was a sunny day, so the walk was very enjoyable so I bought a savory crepe for a quick late lunch. The gardens are very pretty, and done in a different style then some of the others I visited. I first had to see the Menagerie since I always visit zoos wherever I may be. The zoo was only open for a little while more, but I had to see what there was. They had so many neat looking birds, and some exhibits I never saw before. Like the guinea pig and rabbit exhibit! I never saw guinea pigs in a group running around and chasing each other! It was a lot of fun, and I got my cuddly furry creature fix for the day.

Afterwards, I explored the various gardens that were still in bloom. I found some plants I recognized from my parents garden and then others I had never seen! My feet were starting to ache a bit, so I decided to go back home. I hopped on the Metro and was home shortly. I took a nap before trying to pack. I had an extra duffel packed in my main suitcase, so it was not too difficult to pack everything, though I was really worried about my wine.

I made myself dinner with leftover food while I finished packing, and even polished off the wine, I couldn’t let it go to waste! I decided to go to the Eiffel tower for the last time to see it sparkle. One metro ride later, I was back where the adventure had started. I thought about all I had done and all I had seen in my short stay. My first trip to Paris was amazing and I could not have asked for anything better. My planning paid off, and though I worried about being to stiff, it worked out for the best because I was still flexible. I stayed there for two twinkles, and then made my way home for the last time.

The next morning I was supposed to wake up early to make it to the airport two and half hours before my flight, but this time my plans failed me. I was running a little late already when I called my cab. I used the number where they send a nearby cab to your location, and I brought my things down all five flights of stairs!! Unfortunately, after 20 minutes, it still hadn’t shown! I had already locked my apartment and dropped off my key in the mailbox, so I couldn’t get back in. So I resorted to using my cell phone and called another cab, this time using the service that had English operators. This time the cab came quickly, and I was off to the Opera stop for the Roissy Bus. Traffic was horrible though, and I was running REALLY late. Even the bus was really slow, so I was having a major major panic attack. My flight was at 10:00 AM, and I was still stuck in traffic at 8 AM!! I finally made it to the airport at 8:30, and rushed to the terminal. The Swiss Air employee was happy to see me, because he mentioned that very few passengers had arrived and the last chance to check in was 9:20, and by then it was already 9AM! I was just relieved that I wasn’t going to miss my flight! The security line was a bit longer, but no more than 20 minutes. So despite my worrying I had made it to the gate in less than an hour! I wouldn’t recommend anyone trying it, but I was glad to have made it!

Day 12: Good-bye Visitor

After all the fun the previous evening, my friend and I were slow to get out of bed. Eventually we did make it out though, the draw of another lovely day in Paris is much too strong to be a sleepyhead!

We stopped at a café for breakfast, and made plans again. This was my friend’s last day in Paris, and she had a train to catch in the evening back to Germany. Once again we decided to split up, since she was heading towards a museum I had already visited. My itinerary was in the direction of the Orangerie and I decided to make it a nice stroll. Since it was Sunday, I really wanted to walk through the area near Notre Dame. I had heard about a bird and flower market that takes places there so I was very curious to see what that was like.

So I walked towards My bridge, and just thought back to all the things I had managed to do already even though my time was coming to an end. Soon I arrived at the stalls set up with various flowers. Some of them seemed more permanent, while others were a bit more flimsy. But what they all had in common was the beautiful plants they had! I was surrounded by carefully manicured trees and shrubs, pretty potted plants, and cut flowers of all sorts. Not to mention all the fun little garden knick knacks, and variety of seeds! I grew up with gardeners for parents, so this was all very familiar to me. My original plan hadn’t been to spend too much time here, but I couldn’t resist popping into the stores. I was also on the hunt of a butterfly of some sorts for my youngest sister. The smells of the little shops is just wonderful, and some of the variety of plants is very unique! One store had so many different orchids it made my head spin.

Eventually the flower market melted into the bird market, which in fact was not only birds! There were parrots, canaries, lovebirds, parakeets, and birds I didn’t even recognize in various cages. Some of the setups were haphazard with quaint wooden bird cages, while others were much more uniform with proper labeling and some kind of order. Some of the vendors appealed to the fur-loving people, and had hamsters, rabbits, and little mice. I stopped to cuddle a bunny or two, and played with some ferrets, missing my Tarzan the whole time! I did see some reptiles and amphibians, but I steered clear of the creepy crawlies!!

I pulled myself away from the colorful and noisy market, and decided that I needed to hop on the metro if I was going to stick to my schedule! A short ride later, I was at the edge of the Tuilleries, where I noticed they had moved the Ferris wheel to. As I approached L’Orangerie, I noticed a line. As I walked towards it, I prayed that it was not the line for the museum! Unfortunately it was! Since I had missed the museum the other day, I moved it to Sunday, which happened to be the 1st Sunday of the month! The line was incredibly long, but I really wanted to see the museum. So I stood patiently, watching kids playing on the lawn and dogs running around. It was not a horrible wait, and in Paris, my patience levels had dramatically increased!

So I made my way in, and prepared for the water lilies. The exhibit is pretty extraordinary, not just the paintings, but the way they are displayed. Despite the crowd, the rounded room seemed very open and you were surrounded by a beautiful painting. I took my time to study the painting, examining the brush strokes and use of color from as close a vantage point as was allowed. It continued on for the other rooms, filled with Water Lilies. Afterwards I made my way downstairs to see some of the other paintings. They were not as dramatic or fluid as the lilies, but there were some very beautiful paintings as well. The organization of the rooms and the crowd made it harder to maneuver, but eventually I made my way to the temporary exhibit, which was a bit of modern art very out of place in the museum! It was a different take on the lilies in statue form, but I simply did not get it! I peeked in on a movie about the artist, but that too I did not get. It showed how he would take clay and hit, throw it, bend it and then call it art. To me it looked like stress therapy, but I’m not artist!

With one last look at Monet’s Lilies, I left the museum. I headed back towards the Metro, towards Notre Dame for mass. I realized I had some time, so I stopped at a café for coffee. It was actually the café from a previous adventure, where the vendors refused to sell me a hot dog. I enjoyed the café crème and then headed inside Notre Dame for evening mass. There was actually a different service in progress, so I waited for it to end before I took a seat.

On my previous visit, I was impressed by the architecture, but I didn’t feel the religious atmosphere. On that Sunday evening, Notre Dame was infused with sanctity, religion, and something entirely different. The mass I attended is presided over by the Bishop and is televised, so it draws quite a crowd. Even though it is in French, I still understood a lot of it, and the experience is one I will not easily forget. Just looking at the lit up interior filled with worshippers, is something out of a storybook! When the small choir started to sing, I got so many goosebumps from the amazing sound. Truly, if you want to see Notre Dame at its best, I think a mass is the way to see it. On a normal day, it’s an architectural marvel, during a service it is so much more, even if you don’t follow the faith.

Once mass was over, I headed back to the apartment to meet my friend for dinner. We chose to go to Les Philosophes, and as we entered the owner bustled us next door saying we would have more room and a better seat. His other restaurant, was indeed less crowded and we got a great seat by the window. We ordered wine, and then I had a great soup, followed deliciously prepared beef. It really is a great deal for the plat du jour, and the food is well cooked! We lingered over dinner before heading across the street for dessert at Amorino’s. Taking our gelato we went back to the apartment, and I helped my friend gather her things and then bid her farewell.

I was on my own again, and even though I loved having a visitor, I liked the peacefulness of my little studio. It was my home as much as my room back in Illinois was!

Day 11: Saint Denis

Despite the late night, I woke up fairly early the next morning because I had another delightful day planned! On the itinerary for the day was St.Denis(!!), a stroll near Canal St. Martin, and L’Orangerie. And if my new friends made plans, we were heading for a night on the town as well!


The first order of business for the morning was taking my friend Layannah to try her first café crème and croissant. We popped in to a café since it was too chilly to sit outdoors and savored our delicious breakfast. We discussed our plans for the day, and I helped my friend figure out how to best make use of her short visit. After breakfast, we split up, she headed towards Sacre Couer while I made my way to St.Denis, with plans to meet for lunch in the Oberkampf area.


The train ride to St.Denis was a bit tedious, but I wisely used the time to read up on my destination. I had been anticipating this visit since learning about it in Art History during our study of French cathedrals. The story behind it is quite fascinating and so while I read about Abbot Suger, I arrived on the spot. For people worried about the location, it is not really bad at all. It is a different dynamic than central Paris, but really nothing to be alarmed by, and nothing to stand in your way from visiting a Beautiful cathedral.


The exterior of St.Denis is not very impressive in my opinion. It only has one tower since Suger died before gathering the funds to complete the second tower, and no one could collect money like Suger did! The drab exterior did not worry me too much, because I knew the treasure waiting inside! And true enough, when you walk in the doors it is an amazing site. The height of the basilica is magnified by the beautiful windows and vaulted ceilings. Light poured in at all angles, highlighting the pink hues in the stonework. I wandered around looking at the various altars and scenes depicted on the windows. Once I reached the front barrier, I decided I would need to see more, so I went ahead and purchased the ticket for the front of the church and the tombs.


The ambulatory is itself worth the entry price! The stained glass is remarkable! And walking around, every you see the crypts/tombs? of the royal families. The styles vary, but you still get the creepy feeling that the beautiful stone carvings house the remains of royalty. Even more creepy is the actual crypt, and I tried to stay there and look around but me being skittish and easily frightened, I ended up making a quick exit upon seeing the bars that could close you in a crypt! I did manage to take a look at what remains of the original architecture , a crumbly mess with some identifiable supports. Then it was back inside the main part of the basilica to look at the other crypts. The dates were quite remarkable, and seeing how young some of the royal children were was a bit sad. After a few parting snapshots, I went into the adjacent building where a wooden model showed what would have been the finished St.Denis if Abbot Suger’s plans were carried out. When I glanced at my watch, I realized I had been wandering far too long and needed to head back towards our lunch destination!



When I arrived at the Oberkampf Metro stop, I realized once again I had not specified at which exit we would meet. I was really worried about my friend, since she was not as comfortable in Paris as I had started to become. I must have walked to all 3 or 4 of the exits 10 times, before I finally saw my friend emerge. She actually had been waiting underground since she hadn’t known what exit to use! Lesson learned, we proceeded to L'Estaminet, which had been our chosen restaurant for the day. The atmosphere was very casual and all the people inside were speaking French. I ordered the duck with some kind of potato based food on the side and found it marvelous! It was my first taste of duck and it was delicious. My friend had ordered the specialty of the day, some kind of steak, which looked good too and she enjoyed that. She was not very shy around the wine menu either, her father being in the wine making business on the West coast. After a great lunch we were stuffed but ready to continue on our adventure. Once again we split up, this time I headed towards Canal St.Martin, while she headed to Notre Dame.



Canal St.Martin was the leisurely part of my day, the time I needed to digest lunch. So once I got to the canal, I strolled around. I actually sat down for a bit to watch a man fishing in the canal with the longest fishing pole ever! After a bit of a struggle and 20 minutes later, he pulled out a fairly big fish to the applause of the crowd around him. He let the fish go once he had measured it, and started all over again! I am not sure how I feel about the process of exhausting fish just for sport, but I walked on. I spent some time watching the lock system at work as a boat of tourists went by. It was pretty neat to see the water levels rise and fall to help the boat into the next section. It reminded me of a similar system in Chicago that allows boats onto Lake Michigan from the Chicago river. The area around the canal is very fun and filled with families at the park and the pretty day. I ended up walking for quite awhile before realizing that I was not going to have enough time to visit L’Orangerie that day as planned. I can’t say I was worried since I had enough space towards my last few days in the itinerary to fit it in.



So I walked back towards the metro and eventually made it to the apartment, where I had a few obligatory phone calls to make. My roommate arrived not too long afterwards and we were both ready for food but nothing heavy after our great lunch. So we ended up making sandwiches and then going out to the Amorino on the corner for yummy gelato. By this point in the evening we had gotten ahold of my au pair friend, Sophie. She and a couple girls were meeting in one of their apartments before going out on the town and we were invited to join. So we freshened up, and headed out. It was already late at this point and past my bedtime at home, but I wanted to allow myself one night out (the previous night didn’t count since we were just strolling ! ). So we hopped on the metro, despite Sophie’s instructions to take the RER and arrived at the station where we were supposed to call Sophie so she could escort us to the apartment. The area is very close to the Eiffel Tower and quite pretty, but we had realized that neither of our phone cards would work. We had both failed to bring the correct Paris number that corresponded with the cards! Fortunately, I had set up my cell phone for such situations and I made a quick call for Sophie to pick us up. In no time, Sophie and Caitlin came and took us to the apartment, a mere 6 flight walk up!! After enjoying some snacks at the apartment (cheese, crackers, baguette, chocolate, and wine!) they told us the plan for the night. These Paris dwellers of several months had just learned of the Oberkampf area and wanted to check it out. I had to giggle a little at that point because research crazy Anna had read about it months ago!




So out the door we went again, catching one of the last metro trains (yes, that late!!) towards Oberkampf. We stopped in a very fun Brazilian bar with some of the best bartender/waiters ever! They spoke more English than French but were very entertaining! We had a lot of fun, and actually stayed till the bar closed (Sorry Mom & Dad!). The other girls still wanted to go out elsewhere, and for awhile we walked trying to find a place one of the girls had heard about it. Little did I know, she really didn’t have a good sense of direction and before we knew it we were closer to my apartment than her bar! At this point I begged off from further festivities since it really was too much, and my room mate and I headed home while the other girls hopped in a cab to continue their own adventure!

Day 10: Visitor!

After a nice relaxing day on Thursday, Friday promised to be a very busy and fun day. I had a nice manageable itinerary, that promised to keep me moving and later that night I was expecting my weekend roommate to arrive! All in all I was very excited, so I hardly slept and was up bright and early!

After a relatively quick stop for a croissant and a café crème at the nearby café, I made my way towards Sainte Chappelle. I had originally planned on visiting it a few days back, but the cloudy skies and really long lines were discouraging. I was glad to have pushed it back to a much more sunny days, and I was greatly anticipating seeing the famed stained glass windows. The walk over to the chapel was beautiful, and I couldn’t help admiring the Seine from what I now considered MY bridge. Since it was still early in the morning, I found the line to be much shorter than the previous day, and in less than 15 minutes I was in the lower chapel. I am sure that not everyone finds the lower chapel interesting, but I loved the ceiling and the intricate design. It was a bit dark, but the different style of architecture was lovely. Then I made my way upstairs for the true delight!

As I emerged from the stairwell, I walked into the most colorful jewel box one can imagine! It was the type of sight that stops you in your tracks and makes you just gaze your fill. The sunny light streamed in from all the windows, splattering the modest sized chapel with colors worthy of any artist. It was a *tiny* bit marred due to the scaffolding at the front, but still a very beautiful sight. The other visitors seemed to be in the same daze as I was as they examined the stories depicted in the different windows.
Each window was a little different, using different shapes and colors to create a unique design and story.

I noticed near the windows there were sculptures of various saints, and I mentally thanked my Art History teacher for pointing them out in class. They were a treat in themselves, all at first glance very similar but on closer inspection as unique as the windows they guarded. I took a seat on one of the benches and made use of the guide provided, and read up a bit on the chapel and windows all the while enjoying the beautiful jewel colors. After looking and reading my fill, I descended the stairs and emerged into the bland world of normal color.

I decided to continue walking and headed towards another highly anticipated treat: Angelina’s. Being a slave to chocolate, this promised to be a highlight of my trip. The interior of the restaurant was beautiful decadent, and made me almost wish to return to the days when this was the norm! I was promptly seated and gave my order for the got chocolate and a mont blanc, which came recommended by my landlord in his guidebook. As the waitress brought out my order I couldn’t wait to taste what I had heard so much about. It was very intricately presented, the little pot of chocolate, the tea cup and cream. I prepared a little cup and prepared myself for heaven. And indeed the first sip was blissful! Some of the best chocolate ever! But after the initial sip I realized, I already felt as if I had eaten several chocolate bars! This could not be! I , the choc-aholic, have reached my fill on a measly sip or two of hot chocolate. So I tried the pastry and discovered it was entirely too sweet! I was horrified, where was my sweet tooth? Had it all deserted me at this critical moment??? After a few more attempts at the chocolate, I started getting queasy. So in a moment of cowardice, I left the money with the bill and fled before anyone noticed that I could not handle the much famed chocolate.

I was entirely disappointed in myself, and I figured I was not who I thought I was. I couldn’t be, because what choc-aholic fled from dessert? I actually so queasy that I decided to walk in the fresh air towards my next destination, L’Arc De Triomphe. On my way, I stopped in the Place de la Concorde to admire the beautiful fountain and Obelisk. I loved the Obelisk, even though it did not seem to belong. The carvings on it were beautiful, my favorite being a row of ducks. By this point my stomach had calmed down so I continued on towards the Arc. After walking through a pretty park, and passed crowded and pretty stores filled with pretty and unattainable things, I gazed up at the Arc.

It is a very impressive monument and definitely something I had always associated with Paris. So I made my way underground and emerged right next to the Arc after purchasing a ticket to go up. I admired the Arc from eye level, and then prepared for yet another climb of doom. I am certain that this is how Parisians stay thin…they refuse elevators! The spiral staircase is a bit dizzying, and about halfway up I stopped and used the excuse of taking a picture to catch my breath. I had noticed several tourists doing the same, and decided to go along with the same sneaky technique.

Once up top, I realized that this is one of the best views of Paris! I was impressed with the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame, but this was amazing as well! I must have stood there for ages, looking at the various streets escaping from the center of the Arc. Then I made my way down again, realizing after awhile that down is almost as bad as up! I noticed I had some time before the Louvre became free for young adults, so I decided to head to Luxembourg Gardens. I navigated the Metro like an old pro, and in no time at all I found myself at the beautiful park.

It really is a beautiful place! There are various activities for families, from tennis courts to basketball courts and playgrounds. I strolled for a bit and ended up settling near the central lawn and garden to finish off the rest of my book. The setting is quite pretty, with beautiful colorful flowers everywhere , and they Luxembourg palace making a great background. As I finished my book, I realized I was actually hungry despite my previous trauma. I stopped at a vendors to purchase a savory crepe of ham and cheese, and made my way by Metro back to the Louvre. As it was last Friday, the line was fairly short and I was inside quickly. This time I started by exploring the French sculpture gallery which became my favorite place in the Louvre right then and there! I loved all the marble and the way it was presented. After touring the sculptures, I explored Napoleon’s apartments and some of the French renaissance galleries. Soon I realized my feet ached and I needed real food!

So sadly I left the Louvre, knowing I wouldn’t have time to go back on this visit. I made my way to the apartment, taking the Metro this time. At home I made a simple dinner with a few things I had picked up the other day. I enjoyed this with some wine and relaxed a bit. I made some phone calls home via Skype assuring everyone all was well and I still had plans to make it back home. Soon it was 11pm and my friend had arrived from the train station. She has been working in Germany on a summer internship, but traveled on weekends and this time I had offered her my apartment as a home base. After catching up and settling her in, we realized neither of us were tired so I decided to play tour guide! It was a novel experience because only a few days ago, I was the one needing a guide!

We walked toward Notre Dame and then along the Seine towards the Louvre. It was all so pretty lit up at night, and we had a great time. We actually did make it to the Louvre as they were turning off the lights, and we then turned around and headed back to the apartment, arriving at a VERY late 2 AM!! Yikes! Needless to say, we fell asleep very quickly!

Day 9: A little relaxed

When my ninth day in Paris dawned, I realized I was not as anxious to start to get up and running. The last 3 days of Chateaux and Versailles really took a toll on me! So I decided to spend the morning lazying around before heading out to the Rodin Museum.
I got dressed and strolled to the bakery for some fresh bread and then to the market for some breakfast supplies. I made myself a delicious omelet and listened to my new favorite radio station, Chante France. After breakfast, I stopped at a café nearby for the obligatory café crème which I had begun to cherish and expect as my treat of the day. I spent some time people watching, but also dove into my new book, A Year In Merde. I loved the fact that I could actually relate to some of the things in the book and found them hilarious.

Soon with my cup empty and feeling much more relaxed, I checked my metro map to plot out the best way to the Musee Rodin. By now this was an easy task, and before I knew it I was there! I took advantage of the under 25 deal, which really makes you realize that any sort of college id or youth card isn’t necessary! The museum itself is beautiful. The buildings architecture was just as interesting as anything you could find inside! I decided to head indoors, before viewing the outside gardens. The museum is a lot less crowded than several other museums I have been too, so it allowed for a very leisurely stroll among the exhibits. I have to say that the sculptures really appealed to me more than the other art I have seen to date. It may the fact that they are tangible or in three dimensions, or perhaps the variety of mediums used, I am not sure which it was, but it really impressed me. Although, like in all the museums, a few pieces of art managed to scandalized little conservative Anna. If only my parents knew….

Once I had made my way around the indoor exhibits, I headed out to the garden. Here some of the famous works resided, The Thinker, The Gates of Hell. The weather was superb, so the walk around the beautiful garden was very pleasant. I ended up stopping at the café to order an ice cream and sat in the garden reading a little and just enjoying my surroundings.

By the time I left it was early afternoon, so I went back to my apartment to make some lunch and take a short nap since I had planned on staying out late-ish. I made myself a sandwich and had a little wine, and then promptly fell asleep! I was so glad that the itinerary I had created allowed me to do things like nap, because being in Paris was exhausting after awhile, but in a very wonderful way!

After my nap I decided to stroll along the river for a bit before heading to the Eiffel Tower. The walk was wonderful and it was great to not be rushing anywhere and just enjoying the people and the scenery. It really made me love Paris more than I thought possible. Once again, I stopped after awhile to read a bit by the river (Note to self: Do not bring really good books on vacation!). Once it started getting dark, I went on my way to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle!

As I arrived it was just sparkling for the first time. That is truly a sight you cannot miss when in Paris, it may not be quintessential but it is beautiful! The line to go up to the top was still a bit long so I decided to wait a bit before braving the heights! I didn’t realize how many people would be there trying to sell various wares. From men selling key chain Eiffel Towers to men selling wine and champagne! What made it even more amusing was when all of a sudden these peddlers starting swarming across the lawn to towards the cover of the trees! It was like a swarm of ants!! I guess the police patrol had stopped by and frightened away the peddlers!

Still laughing I headed towards the lines to go up to the top. I was still worried but it was definitely something I wanted to do. So now the line was really short, and I got my ticket and was on the first elevator in minutes. It was still crowded but very quick. I didn’t exit on the first level, but did get out on the 2nd level as is mandatory. The view from there is very beautiful! I did not expect it to be so pretty from only half way up, but it definitely was!! I must have looked around for ages before I remembered I still had one more level to ascend. The line for this elevator was a bit longer, but the people-watching was fun. I tried to determine the origins of various tourists to pass the time.

The elevator ride definitely scared me witless! This elevator rode closer to the outside, to the point it looked like you would fall out. I was having a minor panic attack, worrying the doors would open while we were outside. It was to my intense relief that we actually arrived in a glass enclosed area, without an immediate view outside! I looked around from the inside , till I became comfortable enough to go up the flight of stairs to get outside. Finally getting up there was intense! Not only had I conquered a fear, but I had arrived at the top of the world! The view was even more breath taking than on the other levels and nice breeze made it wonderful!! I took in as much as I could before descending again and taking the elevators down. I didn’t go home right away, but staying and watched the next twinkling, and just enjoying Paris.

Day 8: Versailles and New Friends

First off, I apologize for my lapse in posting.
As some of you have assumed, I was out having fun and running out of time to write my blog! I have been keeping interesting hours that would have some people somewhat shocked, but it's the way things are done by the young Parisians!

So, I left off with my trip into Tours. That was probably the most exhausting part of my visit since it was quite fast paced, and the rest is more spread out even with my itinerary! So what this meant was that Wednesday I was extremely tired! I had arrived back at my apartment around midnight, called my niece to wish her a happy B-day and went to sleep. So I did not wake up very early for my trip to Versailles. In fact, I made it a late morning, not getting out of bed till ten! Once I did get out, I was up and running in no time.

I made myself some breakfast at home, with a lovely baguette I stepped out to get. I love the bread here! It is simple but amazing, and honestly like nothing I have ever tasted! During breakfast I went over my notes and guidebook to refresh my memory on how to get to Versailles and how to best buy tickets. With that being done, I walked over to St.Michel RER station, and purchased my combo train/entrance ticket to Versailles. I did this because the lines at Versailles tend to be long, and pre-purchasing tends to be a good deal and less hassle.The RER station was a bit confusing to navigate at first, but I did manage to get on the proper platform. I was surprised because by this point in my trip, I had tourists and French people asking me for directions. My guess as to why is that I tend to hate not knowing where I am going, so even when lost I am still good at feigning confidence which some people assume is knowledge!

The train itself was pretty neat, it was a double decker like the Illinois Metra, but both floors were much roomier and comfortable. So comfortable in fact that I almost resorted to my Metra commute naptime! Unfortunately, RER does not stop in Schaumburg, so I was careful to remain conscious! The ride was roughly 45 minutes, and when we arrived at the station, it seems we exited in hordes! The signs were pretty clear, but even if they weren't, it would be just following the crowd.

Upon approaching the Palace, it was a bit (a big bit) amazing. Even after seeing some of the Loire Chateaux, I still could not stop to stare in amazement at the sheer size and design of Versailles. The walk up to the entrance was littered with people selling key chains and souvenirs, not too mention, the hordes of people attempting to get in. The line for tickets was pretty long, but fortunately the line for security was not too bad. What is really nice about the ticket you purchase, is that the audio guide is not an additional cost. The rooms are all very well marked, so the tour is not hard o follow.

I must admit, none of the rooms were intriguing until I entered the Hall of Mirrors. Up until then, I had seen similar rooms in the other chateaux. But when you enter the Hall of Mirrors, it is somehing else entirely. It is the height of elegance and wealth, and when you first see it, it seems like it is an enormous glittering room. In reality, the room is not that big, the mirrors on one side give the illusion of great size. Nonetheless, it is a very elegant and grand room. Afterwards, I also enjoyed the Queen's apartments. I liked the style they were built in and decorated.

Once I finished the main tour, I headed outside for a view of the grounds.
If anything ever took your breath away, it had to be the view! The expanse of land, water, and gardens that lay out in front of you when stepped out was beautiful! To one side you had a garden with potted plants and palm trees. On the other side fountains, and straight ahead were additional gardens and a beautiful fountain. It was enough to make your head spin!

I started with a walk in the garden of potted trees. It was quite empty but beautiful in the design and layout. Next I walked towards the maze like hedges near the fountain. It was a bit chilly, but I found myself a sunny spot and ate my baguette sandwich while admiring the landscape artistry. After a quick lunch break, I walked further down the lane towards the opposite end of the grounds but stopped at the lake to watch the rowboats and swans. It was so peaceful and pretty, that I sat down and started reading a book and watching the people and the waterfowl. I am not sure how long I stayed there, I did not finish much of the book, but I did see some interesting ways of steering a boat!

I explored a little further down the lane, but had to turn back if I was going to make it to my dinner plans! I strolled back to the main buildings and then right back to the train station. I could tell I was tired and comfy because once again my Chicago Metra habit kicked in and I was practically asleep on the train! I managed to stay awake and get to my apartment with enough time to get ready for dinner.

The plan was to meet a friend at the St.Michel metro stop and then search out dinner with her and some additional friends. Well, problem is, St.Michel has multiple metro exits! It took us awhile to find each other but eventually we did! Sophie is an Australian au pair living in Paris, who I met through a travel website geared at students and young adults. Sophie introduced me to some of her friends, Caitlin(American) and Sara (Aussie) both also au pairs, and a French girl Charlene who also introduced me to another French girl. By this time names were flying around in my head, and accents left and right! Much to my surprise, I learned I had a heavy Chicago accent! I was a bit incredulous but the Aussies, American, and French all assured me this was so! They all thought it was neat, while I was loving their accents in turn!

We strolled the Latin Quarter quite a bit, searching for a good restaurant that could take our group in. We had fun strolling around and learning new things about each other. The restaurant we ended up at for dinner was a newish place in the Latin Quarter called Watt. It had very modern decor, and very reasonable prices. I had my first taste of risotto with forest mushrooms and some great white wine. The total for 6 people (including 2 bottles of wine) was only 120 Euros! Delicious food, great wine, and fun company! It was great to meet new people who were so very different from me and who I typically hang out with. By the end of dinner I was invited to a Saturday night get together at Caitlin's apartment.

Before we parted ways, we had to have dessert. Sophie highly recommended the Nutella Banana crepe and neither I nor the two au pairs had tried it. The two French girls and Sophie got their gelato, while the rest of us were initiated into the wonderful world of banana and Nutella! I do like Nutella crepes, but with the added banana it is heaven! We walked back to the Metro where everyone but me had to catch a train train (I planned on walking, a 15 minute stroll). We all said good night after making tentative plans for Saturday.

Day 6 & 7: Chateaux

So this morning, I figured out I needed to be up fairly early, estimating that with possible misdirection and travel issues, I need to be out the door by 5:45 AM. Now anyone that knows me, also knows I am not a morning person. On top of this, I had gotten home fairly late from the bike tour. So in order to not miss my train, my body refused to let me sleep. This is what happens when you get paranoid, you think on it so much that not only does your brain not stop, but your body doesn’t either.

Before I knew it, it was 5 AM and I needed to pack up and go. After downing some coffee and packing my backpack for two days I left my home, already running several minutes late. Even though I factored in the possibility of being lost, I did not factor in that morning Metro trains do not run as often. So my paranoid self started toe tapping all the way to Montparnasse where I then practically sprinted out and followed the signs to the train station. I kept looking for car 14, but couldn’t find it, thinking it was very odd that all the trains were considered cars 1&2. It wasn’t till I got to the end that I realized, that it was not the cars labeled 1&2 but the class of car! I forgave myself my own stupidity assuming it was due to the early start!

The trip went by fast as I typed up some missing trip reports and watched the misty countryside go by. When we arrived at St.Pierre, I was still a little muddled and unsure as to how I was going to get to the Tours Tourism Office. Fortunately for me, the line waiting by the taxi stand gave it away. Now, I think this is cool so bear with me but my taxi ended up being a snazzy new BMW station wagon. I am much more used to my plain old car in the US, so this was a treat for me. A short ride later, I was at the office, the still closed office. So with nothing better to do, I took a walk around the neighborhood. Tours resembles Paris in many ways, same type of buildings, same cobblestones, etc. I did notice the abundance of lovely parks early on, and even sat down for a bit to appreciate the early morning peace. The office then opened and I went to inquire about getting on a tour of the chateaux. Unfortunately, Acco-Dispo had filled up and I wasn’t pre-booked. So I wound up going with a different company showing the same things. The driver wasn’t very talkative and my companions were a Japanese mother and daughter pair.

I actually think the funniest part of the day was when the two women saw the minivan. The tour company’s brochure shows an option that allows you to rent an antique car for the day, such as a Rolls Royce. However, this option is not typical and a special inquiry and price are required. The two women had not understood all of the brochure and thought they would be traveling in such a car! Now imagine their disappointment when they got a very plain minivan!

The van left the tourism office soon, and away we went for our first stop at Chenonceau.. The main reason I opted for a tour was because of the amount of chateaux it enables you to see. If I had rented a car, I would not have been able to get as many chateau in the same amount of time. You really have to be a crazy French driver to make it that quick! So away we hurtled to Chenonceau with our crazy French driver and our stick shift van.

We were dropped off at the castle for two hours and left to our own devices. I think Chenonceau became my favorite castle very quickly. I found it’s interior and exterior very beautiful and well maintained. On the inside, you viewed beautiful rooms with tapestry covered walls and old furniture. The kitchen was in a very old Medieval style and definitely roomy enough to service the entire castle. The rest of the rooms were quite comfy despite the grandeur, and it was easy to see a family residing there. The exterior of the castle looked very picturesque, especially the portion above the river. The gardens were beautiful, and created in the typical organized French style. I loved the geometry and organization of it all!

Soon we were back in the van, hurtling to Amboise. The countryside reminded me of Poland in some ways. The little houses with gardens and farmland, all so quaint and beautiful.

When we arrived in the town of Amboise, we had the option of touring both Clos Luce as well as the main Amboise chateau. I was curious to see where Da Vinci once called home so I opted for both chateaux. Da Vinci’s home was very small compared to the rest if the chateaux, but just as opulent. The furniture and tapestries were not lacking in richness. The view of the main castle from the windows gave me something to anticipate while looking over the small garden.

After finishing the visit there, I walked over and then up to Amboise. The chateaux is built very much like a fortress up above the entire town. I personally did not find the interior of Amboise striking. The exterior of the castle was pretty, and the views from the various towers and terraces were amazing!

Back down in the village I had a savory crepe at a little efficient restaurant with with very friendly servers/cashiers. I then walked over to the river, near the meeting point but since I had time I sat down on a bench with a view of the castle, bridge, and river. The bus was a little late since it picked up five more tourists, this time from China and Paris, and the drive changed to much friendlier Frank.

However, Frank was still our crazy French driver, so away we sped to Cheverny. I was exited about this chateaux, specifically to see the kennel. I missed my pup Tarzan, so I couldn’t wait to get a canine fix. Before that, I dutifully explored the castle and learned it was still partly inhabited by new owners. The rest of the castle is open to the public and filled with very pretty rooms, and some amazing furniture. Outside I headed over to the dogs. Now I do realize hounds often stay in packs, but not one hundred twenty dogs in one place!! I did enjoy seeing the dogs, who like most French dogs are very well behaved with no aggression. As I walked back to the van, I saw the gardeners mowing the lawn into gold course perfection. Seriously, the property is very clean and well maintained.

Our last stop was Chambord, with its 440 rooms and 365 fireplaces! The castle is impressive in architecture, very complex with an interesting double staircase in the center. The furniture is not as interesting as in Cheverny but there is a large quantity of it. Also based on photos and trophies, it looked like the past tenants had been fond of hunting. I didn’t find the interior as impressive as the exterior, it was just all too dreary and disorganized to me. It’s a gorgeous chateau, but not my choice in to live in!

Leaving the chateau, we headed back to Tours, and I actually fell asleep in the car in the one hour it took us to get back. Once back at the Tourism office, I started walking to the Hotel L’Adresse, backpack and all. The hotel is in the old district, with timber frame buildings. The walk wasn’t long, and soon I was at the very modern hotel. The receptionist was very friendly and helpful, the room was *tiny* but very clean, and the bathroom was very modern with a somewhat Asian influence. I dropped off my things and found a creperie for dinner. At the Lys d’Or, I tasted a Crepe Normande, with cheese, chicken, and mushrooms made into a delicious and hearty meal! I was too tired to do much else so I went back to my room and to sleep.

The next day I woke up and packed up, and went down to breakfast. It was your typical hotel breakfast, but the croissants were Delicious! I left my bag at the desk and checked out, and then headed back to the tourist office for my next tour. This time I did get Acco-Dispo and it became clear why they come so highly recommended. The driver, Pascal, gave us lots of information on the area of Tours, each chateau, and France in general. He even gave us tips on how best to tackle the chateaux. My companions this time were the same Chinese tourist from the day before and a friendly Brazilian couple. We chatted a bit on the ride, and it made it much quicker.

Our first stop was Villandry. If anyone is a fan of the French garden, Villandry is a must! Pascal recommended we only pay to visit the garden, and that was more than enough to keep us busy for the allotted time. When we first entered, it was up at the top of a terrace and we had a view of all three gardens. They are simply amazing and being anything I have ever seen! One garden is a water garden, one is a kitchen garden, one is a scent/medicinal garden, and the last is purely ornamental. All combined create a beautiful pattern when looked at from above. Inside the actual garden, it is equally beautiful even in the rows of lettuce and tomato. I think the color organization and the patterns make for a beautiful view no matter where you stand!

Sadly, the visit was short and we were soon on our way to Azay-le-Rideau. The village surrounding this chateau is very picturesque. Actually when we got out, I noticed a little black cat playing with a mouse in the garden of a home. I don’t think the poor mouse made it, but it was interesting seeing the cat toss it up since I only thought this happened in Tom & Jerry! I also found it weird that black cats have been following me, since I also saw one in Montmartre.

This chateau was quite small, but beautifully decorated. I think the interior was the best I have seen. I found out from Pascal that Chenonceau and Azay are both designed by women, hence they are more cozy and better organized. He pointed out the kitchens, which are more noticeable than in any other castle. In truth, I don’t recall kitchens in Cheverny or Chambord! All the rooms in Azay are very rich with many tapestries and paintings, but they look livable! My favorite room was the family drawing room, where I wish I could have curled up in a chair with a good book! The property and building itself are very cute! The chateau looks like it is floating on water due to the large moat surrounding it.

The van then took us back to Tours where I had time to wander about before my train back to Paris. I ended up finding several picturesque gardens, where I just sat down for a bit and watched people or wrote in my notebook. After one of the gardens, I saw a cathedral and decided to pay a visit. It ended up being beautiful! It was built in the same style as Notre Dame, but like St. Eustache it was much more airy and light. In fact, it had the best stained glass windows I have seen. Each set of windows told some kind of story and there were notes explaining it. The church was very empty and definitely felt like a church, so I made my way around to see the windows before taking some time at one of the altars devoted to Mary and saying a prayer.

After leaving the church, I headed over to the Grand Passage in search of lunch. I found a little café and followed my rule for the plat du jour. The entrée was good, a tomato and mozzarella dish. But the main course…. It was a steak type meat, but very pink..as in my sauce was going from brown to reddish brown when I sliced a piece off. It didn’t look appealing, so it didn’t taste amazing. Also people that know me, know I don’t like vein-y meat. This piece of meet was vein-y and at one point it had me gagging as I tried to eat it. I think my stomach is still not over the mean thing I did to it. So I think, next time I will drop my plat du jour scheme and go for chicken!

After lunch I wound up walking to the river walk and just sitting in the sun for a while. I had nothing to do and my toes deserved a rest, so I sat down and watched the people. Young couples strolling, a group of what I consider punk/goth youths with several dogs, and then families enjoying the day. After an hour or so, I decided I needed a caffeine boost so I went back to the town center to a café and ordered my café crème and watched the busy shoppers. There was a Printemps department store nearby, not too mention several smaller stores so shopping seemed to be very popular. After my coffee I walked back to the hotel to pick up my bag, and then walked to the train station to catch a taxi to the TGV station, where I had some time to kill. I found a good book at the magazine shop, A Year in Merde, so I sat down to read a bit. The book is hilarious, and about a man who comes to France from England and all his mis-adventures. I was glad I could understand so much of it! Once the train arrived, it was a short ride to Paris and then home!

PS I will post more pictures when Blogger fixes the problem with uploading pics.